Moss Poles are a great addition to any indoor plant.
They promote growth and encourage larger leaves, they also allow plants to grow vertically rather than loosy goosy.
Plants that will climb will show larger leaves, increased roots and have a greater support behind them.
Have you ever noticed your plant start growing roots out of it's stems? Those are aerial roots (air roots), searching for water, nutrients and something to latch onto. They're basically begging to be given a pole!
The moss allows roots to latch onto them, which in turn allows your plant to grow more roots that can increase the oxygen, water & nutrients.
We attempted to make our own moss poles and here's how we did it.
1 - Soak the moss in a weak fertiliser & or Seasol for a couple of hours, I used both for mine. This helps to make sure the moss doesn't become hydrophobic and also adds some nutrients to the otherwise nutrient-less moss.
2 - Attach the Pipe cap and fill the pipe with water to check no water escapes from the bottom then empty water from it.
4 - Next I started on the edge of the netting and placed the PVC pole on the edge. I then rolled the netting around the pole and used the floral wire to thread all the edges together. I let my netting overlap by one column to give it a little extra support.
Once my pole was done I had to decide what plant I would put on it, I love multiplanting so I chose to do a big monstera pot!
Of all the plants succulents are probably one of the easiest to propagate. It's like these boys have an innate nature to reproduce. I've seen roots begin to form on succulent leaves just left in warm cars, thrown on the pavement without needing any assistance.
Succulents can be propagated in a broad variety of mediums, personally for succulents I prefer to use soil. I've found in water their chances of rotting is high and honestly my kitchen bench never has enough space to propagate succulents and all my other plants.
Succulents can be propagated two ways - STEM or LEAF. Both are easy and require little effort.
To propagate a leaf cutting you simply remove a healthy leaf from the plant, this can be done by firmly twisting at the base of the stem. Allow this stem to dry out for a few hours, or over night. This will then callous over, like people with cuts. Let it breath and dry out and this will prevent the leaf from rotting when put in soil or water.This leaf has got alot of stored nutrients inside of it and won't need to be watered to much, I usually get a spray bottle and spray it every few days. Lay the leaf along or pop the side closest to the stem in the dirt. As long as it's left in a warm spot it will then root. Sometimes it's as quick as a week, other times it can take a little bit longer.
To propagate a stem cutting remove the bottom couple of leaves, allow to callous and pop in soil. Stem cuttings require a little bit more water to get going than a leaf cutting, but once it's rooted it's already got a shape, making it alot quicker and easier to get a plant from.
Succulents are one of the easiest, low maintenance plants to grow. They're perfect for "forgetful plant parents" and require very little care. I'm going to specifically be talking about Echeveria's here, but succulents are all relatively similar in their care and needs. Echeveria's is quite a large genus of succulents in the Crassulaceae family. They come in many different shapes, sizes and colours, around 150 different species! Many of their species are even able to display multiple different colours, based on a variety of factors. Like any plant, understanding the plants natural habitat is going to help in knowing how to provide the right amount of care for your plant. Echeveria's are native to semi dessert areas, including South America, Northwestern America & Central America. Think DRY & HOT.
Watering - Every 2 weeks
Light - Bright Light - Full Sun
Repot Yearly & Fertilising During Growth Seasons
Most plants will do well with a yearly repot. It's best to repot in Spring, this is when your plant is beginning to grow after waking up from it's winter sleep.
How to repot:
1: Use a knife or flat object and slide it around the edges of the pot, this helps to loosen the soil from the pot.
2: Gently tip the pot on it's side and pull at the base of the succulent. This helps to ensure you pull the whole plant and soil out.
3: Remove the old soil, if the soil is quite solid gently squeeze it in your hands to loosen up the roots and the old soil. These succulents have very fine roots so it's best to not separate the roots from the soil to much or you may damage the plant and it may go into shock. Most plants require fresh soil, in order to be able to absorb new nutrients from it so if you do decide to remove all the old soil use a paintbrush to gently brush the soil away from the roots.
4. Pop the whole lot in a new pot and top up with fresh soil. Gently pat down the fresh soil to secure the new succulent. It's very important not to go up to many sizes in pots, too big a space and your plants roots will not be able to fill the pot and will struggle to absorb the water which could lead to over watering and root rot.
5. Give your plant a big water.
When it comes to fertilising your succulents most will do well with a yearly fertiliser in Spring, they can be fertilised up to monthly during Spring and Summer but it's really not necessary. Try and incorporate a slow release fertiliser into the soil and then you're plants really will be set and forget.
Here’s a little something from my backyard that I’m exceptionally excited to try for the first time! Monstera Deliciosa's have a few different names, have you ever wondered why some people call them a "Fruit Salad Plant" or "Swiss Cheese Plant"? If these are questions you've found yourself asking then you might enjoy reading this little ramble.
Monstera Deliciosa' are native to tropical rainforests’. They prefer a warm, humid climate and can grow with very little light to moderate light. In their natural habitat they will often climb up trees as they search for light. As they mature their leaves produce fenestrations (slits/holes) in the leaves. In the wild these holes allow the plant to cope with heavy rainfall and wind that can easily pass through them. These holes and slits give the resemblance of Swiss Cheese hence the common name.
Monstera Deliciosa are a wonderful plant, they’re by far my absoloute favourite. I’ve got a monstera in every room of our house. We’re even lucky enough to have a very mature plant in our backyard. “Daddy Monty’s” leaves are almost as big as I am tall and border across our yard. It provides a beautiful outside view for my little home office. For anyone who didn’t know Maature Monstera’s can actually produce fruit and our big boy has been working very hard growing some for us. It’s been a very slow process of watching and waiting for the fruit to mature enough. The fruit is said to taste like a mixture of tropical fruits. Think - Banana, Pineapple, Guava, Mango and many other delightful fruits. Can you guess why the plants nicknamed "The Fruit Salad Plant?"
Our plant began to produce the fruit wrapped inside a cream shell, over time the shell started to fall off and the unripe fruit was visible! Monstera fruit can take up to a year to ripen, and boy did that feel like a long year. As the fruit ripens the cream colour turns to a green and then it’s stem begins to bend down. After many quick google searches I decided to pick the first fruit.
Pictured above: The stem has dropped, the fruit has turned green it's ready to be picked. The fruit was not quite ready to be eaten yet. Unripe monstera fruit can potentially irratate the throat and burn the mouth, much like eating unripe pineapple.
To continue to ripen this fruit I put it in a brown paper bag. The fruit will then ripen from the base to the tip, the scales at the base will slowly start to fall away and leave ripened fleshy fruit that can be eaten.
Stay tuned for updates on this (hopefully) delicious fruit!
We’ve got a few baby Monstera’s available on our website, with some care and the right conditions you may even be lucky enough to grow your own fruit!